Note on Pattern Drafting For Clothing
The basic bodice block is interesting and on the web there are many notes on the basic bodice block pattern. It is a pattern fixed for an ordinary size 12 figure but this can’t be confirmed in this article. It is possible that the pattern is for a size between 10 and 12 and the question of the this basic bodice block’s validity for general sizes is important. Still the bodice block takes into account the general standard measurements which are the general measurements for various circumferences of the human body. In this way the basic bodice block takes into account the thorax and abdomen and doesn’t take into account limbs at all. Which bodice block would you use to create a leotard? This is an interesting question but the fact is that the basic bodice block is a pattern for what it says it is: the bodice or the thorax/abdomen.
In tailoring in the past centuries, one can perhaps imagine how the nape was an important point on the body. Still can you call the nape a ‘point’ on the body? Since the nape is a starting point in some way for creating the bodice, then one can say the nape is a point on the body? And since it is a starting point, the question has to be asked is whether it is the correct starting point? In terms of designing and in terms of creating collars etc, the nape point can be raised and adjusted. The nape point doesn’t have to designate a sewing line for the collar if one doesn’t want to and in dress and costume in the past, the question is whether the nape was important. Was the nape so important in creating the ruff and other collars in past centuries? Was it an important point in the human body or did tailors really designate the nape point as so important? Perhaps tailors worked in another way in marking out points and lines for the human body so suitable costumes and clothing could be made.
Thus the nape point is the centre point in the sense that it divides the back of the body into two halves. Thus what you can see is that symmetry is important in the human body. The body can be divided into two and then it can be divided into two halves in the front. There is thus a front bodice and a back bodice. The nape point is a dividing point and the question is how to locate the nape point and how is the nape point located in relation to the shoulder line or at least the shoulder point. There is of course the shoulder neck point so the nape point can be located in relation to this or vice versa, the shoulder neck point can be located in relation to the nape point. Indeed you can ask how important is the shoulder neck point? It is a ‘point’ and there are not so many important points in the body. There is a point perhaps in the gorge of the neck.. There is a point below the armhole which designates the side of the body. These are important points but you can include other points which are important such as the points designating the tops or bottoms of darts. You can perhaps include points on the armhole line.
The across the back measurement is interesting. When preparing the basic bodice pattern, there is a measurement called ‘Half across back’ and the best way is to measure the complete across the back measurement and divide by 2. A good eye can gauge the measurement without doing this. If you take a line down from the nape, this gives the halfway point for the across back measurement. Know too that the across the back just ends below the armhole. And if you take a tangent or perpendicular line just touching the most inner point of the armhole curve, This latter line will touch the end of the across the back ‘line’.
One can perhaps imagine in the world of measurements and tailoring/garment creation, that there are bones and points on the human body which aid in these important measurements. For, as a measurement on its own, the across the back line and then the half across back are abstract measurements. Maybe it is the armhole itself and you are gauging the armhole line where the arm meets the body. Still the across the back measurement is important because it is a significant line of measurement on the body itself ‘before’ one starts measuring and drawing up the armhole and the full body pattern.
If one looks at the bodice pattern, you can see there is a distance between the point which one can call the ‘half cross back point’. This point is also in some way the first under-arm point in the sense that since the armhole curves inwards and if you take a perpendicular line or tangent from this point then you get this half cross back point. Of course, all this is in some way abstract. One can ask, how do you get this inner point of the armhole curve and how exactly does the armhole curve.
Still, there is a distance, as said, between this half cross back point and the actually underarm point which begins the side and for standard garments, this is the side seam.
Source by Joel Keay